The Jade Coast

It is on the Loire-Atlantique and Vendée coasts that I take you to discover the traditional fisheries: the « carrelets ».

Day 1

On the road, I make a stop at Préfailles to photograph a block of cliff that resists the onslaught of the sea and time: the « Roche Percée ».

I pass Pornic to go to the town of La Joselière and take the coastal path for a first visual contact with the « carrelets ».

« Carrelet »'s fishing is an old tradition on the Loire-Atlantique and Vendée coast.

The « Carrelets » take their name from these braided nylon tablecloths that are submerged using a winch.

At the beginning of the 20th century, fishermen used a square mesh net suspended from long, removable, and portable chestnut poles, also known as « standing wood » . The practice of this fishing technique has evolved over time. The fisheries have gradually developed with pontoons, also called « estacade », and decorated with cabins to facilitate access to fishing at high tide. « Carrelet »'s fishing was recognized as a « national intangible cultural heritage » in 2021 by the Ministry of Culture.

A fishery can only be built at a location where it has been built before. All require an AOT (Authorization for temporary occupation of the public domain), issued for a fixed period by the river or maritime public domain manager.

Nowadays, « carrelets » are mainly used for recreational fishing. Most fisheries on the Jade Coast are owned by individuals, town halls or associations, and are therefore private and prohibited to the public.

Nevertheless, some fisheries, township or associative, can be rented by the tide.

Walking back up the coastal path in the opposite direction, I spot other « carrelets » on the cliffside.

After this photo sequence on the « carrelets », I hit the road again for the island of Noirmoutiers where I will spend the night. After dinner, I do a quick reconnaissance with a headlamp of my spot for the next morning.

Day 2

At 6 a.m., I cross the woods with a headlamp, in a pitch black night, to get to the Noirmoutiers « estacade », which I spotted the day before. An « estacade », is a kind of long jetty made of wood, stakes and piles.

I arrive just as nautical twilight gives way to the blue hour before the sky ignites. Only one fisherman has arrived at the pontoon before me.

I leave the island of Noirmoutiers and head north-west before stopping at Le Porteau, in La Barre de Monts. Upstream, « carrelets » line the Taillée canal, while downstream there is a small harbour with wooden pontoons and oyster huts.

Further north, in the township  of Les Moutiers-en-Retz, at low tide I discover a row of « carrelets » lining an immense beach.

My last stop of the day will be the golden rocks of Rinais Beach in La Bernerie-en-Retz. One last « carrelet » for the road...